Monday 8 September 2008

The first few days

I spent the first night at Lili's. We had lunch the next day with quite the most delicious wine. After that, it took me half a day to move in. Then, in the evening, I joined Liliana and her friends at an Open Mic night at Bar Canto Afiche, where we were in a room full of artistes. We were the only four people who didn't perform. The compère came round to talk to everyone, including me and to my astonishment, at the start of the evening, she made a special introductory speech about me to the audience. The food tasted home-made, the wine was good, the music was Bolero and Tango and they sang with such emotion, such passion, I fell even more deeply in love with Argentina, if that is possible. Oh yes, and one of the singers announced that his song was about me. Flattery works, every time.

On Sunday, I did my first supermarket shop and then went to San Telmo with Maria Amelia, my flatmate. We ambled around the markets, ate pizza (Argentinian pizza is superb: better than Italian or even American) and pressed our noses to all the antique shop windows. I couldn't stop wondering how I could bring some of those gorgeous, antique chandeliers back home with me. If my sister were here (and I could get her to agree), I'm sure she'd have found a way. Maria Amelia and I had hoped to go to the outdoor milonga at Plaza Dorrego, but it didn't appear to be happening, so we went to a charming cabaret café called El Balcon by the plaza, for a tango show. I loved it. The audience was invited to dance on the stage with the performers: I'd like to do that one day, but in the mean time I'll make do with watching American tourists have fun making fools of themselves.

This morning, I went to the fridge to find the stuff I had bought for breakfast and it was nowhere to be seen. I couldn't understand what could have happened to my groceries and everyone was out. Then on my way out, I noticed the dining table had been beautifully laid for breakfast with all my things arranged appetisingly on plates, and a flask of boiling water prepared for my coffee. How thoughtful is that! As no one was about, I took it up on a tray to the sun terrace and had my first breakfast at home exactly the way I think breakfast should be – serene, outside, under a clear, blue sky, surrounded by plants. I think I'll do this every day.

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